Arm River Track to Cynthia Bay, Tasmania trek.

Entering to the Overland track via the Arm river track is a nice alternative to the traditional Cradle Mountain route. We had great weather, sublime views and the track mostly to ourselves.

Diary Notes:

07:30 to 09:30 we bus from Launceston to Arm River track using the Tasmanian Tour Company ph. 6424 3628. Cost $120.00 for the two of us.

10:00 to 12:00 We are on track starting off with a steep 1/2 hour climb. Our legs felt somewhat punished with the early onslaught, but we were soon relieved with an easy walk to the base of Mt Pillinger.


12:00 great timing for lunch on the top of Mt Pillinger. The weather was on our side giving us good all round views into Lees Paddocks, the Mersey valley and to the plains.

14:00 - 18:00 A beautiful walk to the hut at Pillinger, Lake Ayr. Cloudy skies but not foreboding of rain. Boardwalks over swampy areas made this walk a breeze. 

18:00 onwards, Cold night, the animals were out in force: possum, pademelon, rock wallaby and a quoll. The hut here (Pelion hut) is large and in good order. It is a major stopping point on the Overland track. Fellow lodgers were good company and fortunately the snoring was more or less non-existent.

27-Feb-2005

In the morning, we were blessed with sunshine and not a cloud in the sky. This would be the case for the rest of the day. It meant we had a great opportunity  at for an ascent of Mt Oakleigh, which proudly stood tall in front of us. 
 

After a decent breakfast, we departed at 9:00am.

The start was through a swampy plain. Unbelievably we were able to stay dry, the lower part of the track was very muddy but the sides where dried mud so we could straddle and skirt. Despite the formidable looking cliffs, the climb up the mountain was straightforward without any danger. We stayed a few hours taking in the awesome perspective afforded from the many vantage points, reluctantly leaving at 2pm. 

After the descent we checked out the old Pelion hut and had a swim below the falls. The track out to the hut was very muddy and poorly maintained. The pool was freezing, but worth it just to rid ourselves of the stench developed after almost two days of sweat and grime. 

In the grass we encountered the odd whip snake.  Glad I always walk with boots and canvas gaiters. Small as they are, the still possess venom which will cause organ failure should they manage to bite you.

28-Feb-2005

Throughout this walk, the surrounding mountains offer great climbing opportunities and the impression that you are centre stage in a grand arena. It is also the small things that are captivating. The streams and the flowers and wildlife.


Our intent today was to bag Mt Ossa. The day began with cloud covering the sky, no wonder the night was warm with such an insulating blanket. We left at 9:00am hoping that the clouds would dissipate. But at 10:30am we arrived to see nothing but cloud.

Ever optimistic we opted to view Toad Rock first. Well, my imagination struggled with the concept. Ray reckons that he could visualize the amphibian shape.


We got to Pelion East and decided to press on. The clouds were lifting and we were able to glimpse the peak of Ossa. The descent from Pelion East was slippery and muddy. Ossa had a track note time of 2 1/2 hours. This time barely scraped in and would be for a strong party in good weather. It is quite an arduous walk, well rewarded with views all the way up. We had lunch on the early ascent to Mt Doris.

We met quite few walkers from a commercial trip know as the 'Cradle Spirit' most were older walkers - (which we dubbed the Chardonnay Trekkers) , doing it easy with showers, beds, no packs and 'home cooked' meals. Quite a few elected only to do Mt Doris, feeling that the strain would be too much. At the top of Mt Ossa, we saw the promise of grandeur, somewhat muted by the clouds, but nether-the-less we were happy.

We pressed on to the next hut of our journey - Kia Ora hut. A long day saw two very tired individuals: after the descent we had to traversed a route full of ankle twisting roots, rough sawn boards transverse to the track and ever undulating topography.


At the hut we met up with some of the group from Pelion Hut and enjoyed swapping stories. Another invigorating was in the pool below the falls, this time only a splash bath instead of immersion.


At night the sun was bright red, causing Cathedral mountain to glow. We all rushed out to get that special photo.


The hut holds up to 24, with 16 tonight. Not as big as Pelion with capacity of 60 (2 to a bunk). The boarded beds were hard and uncomfortable. Thought about tenting but too tired to do anything - should have made that extra effort as some individuals broke the nights peace with loud snoring that would have required some Bose noise cancelling ear muffs to dampen..

01-Mar-2005

We left the hut later than usual at 9:30am as it was a relatively short hike to Windy Ridge. The cloud of yesterday increased to a full winter-weight doona and was like a pregnant cow ready to give birth. We walked through the forest as quickly as the safest pace would allow - tree roots, rocks and uneven boards are all primed to cause ankle injury. Along the way we were entertained by the song of the Olive whistler (thanks to a knowledgeable fellow backpacker) and saw a few other birds.

We could not pass opportunity to visit the falls. I recalled the D'Alton and Fergusson falls from my walk through the Never Never and was keen to revisit them. But before going too far we had to don our Goretex gear as the clouds started to open. The track to falls was well marked, we opted for D'Alton falls first and were impressed. Fergusson falls are higher volume with large boulders, quite special as well, but I feel D'Alton has the edge. 


Hartnett falls are high falls, we intercepted them at the top. To get a good view there was a track , which went a fair way before getting to the river bed. We elected not to follow it and satisfied ourselves with the view from the top.


We also saw the track coming via the Never Never and met two guys that just traversed it. Memories flooded (literally !) back from my trek in 1996.

Heading back, the forest was getting more humid and started to rain soon after. We were able to get to Windy Ridge hut in the nick of time before the deluge. Some very sodden Japanese and Indian walkers came later; all the had was plastic sheeting for raincoats ! It's amazing how many unprepared people I meet on such walks as these.


We had to go back out into the rain to get water at a spring 100m away as the tanks were polluted with a dead animal.Walking back the rain abated so we were able to unzip our waterproof gear, and take it off back at the track junction. A pleasant lunch and we headed for Hartnett falls. Hartnett falls are OK and probably not worth the effort especially after visiting the other two.

Sleep was not easy tonight as we copped yet another loud snorer. But again the night was fun prior to the time of slumber with a few games of Uno, and many a tall story with the fellow campers until the late hour of 8:30pm

02-Mar-2005

We journeyed to Pine Valley hut leaving at 8:45am and arriving 12:00pm. The hike was through pleasant undulating forest , increasing in moss and moistness as we got closer to the hut. We arrived very tired, the 5 days of adventure and dampness experienced in the last couple of days taking its toll. We met the Chardonnay tourers again, who were in a rush to be first to the Narcissus Bay ferry (so fearful of missing the boat - yet I reckon they would arrive 2-3 hours ahead of time at the pace they were going!).

The views of the Acropolis and other mountains livened our spirits with anticipation. The brooks were flowing crystal clear with fresh water.


Pine Valley hut is nestled in the forest, it was very welcoming like a comely country cottage with its verandahs, coal heater and small size. The hut houses about 16 people, we were fortunate only to have six including ourselves. The toilet was newish being a high building composting with rice husks. We explored the area and found a beautiful stream nearby and helipad. At the helipad Ray was able to get a phone signal, our first contact with the outside world - hmm.


The Labyrinth is an interesting place and affords many good views of the Acropolis, the Minotaur and Mt Gould. The Greek names are apt for such ancient and bold rock structures, it is kind of magical and dangerous - a great scene for fantasy movies.
The park ranger told us that there is a good chance we could spot a platypus at the bottom of Cephissus falls, so we walked to them just before dusk. However gambling never favours me so the platypus maintained its secret ways. Cephissus falls were a treat and more than made up for the shy ways of our platypus. The forest with its mossy blanket added to the falls appeal.

03-Mar-2005

We awoke at 7:00am to radiant blue sky filtering through the trees and window of the hut. I walked outside to the helipad and felt excited about the days ensuing climb of the Acropolis. I have been here twice before and both times failed the attempt due to bad weather. and what a fine day it was today .
A girl called Maria, of German descent wanted to come along as she felt intimidated going it alone. Good thing she did as there were some challenging parts. The forest suddenly gives way to a plateau which then moves on to the steeply sided ridges of the Acropolis. We puzzled on the route to take, then found that it skirts to the right of the mountain. We stopped a few minutes into the ascent for a break and photo shoot, sitting on a boulder that gave the impression of a vertiginous drop with no apparent bottom. 

The final parts of the climb involved a great deal of agility, and Maria was very glad of our company. We left the packs at the exit point to reassure ourselves of the return route - this being a piece of sage advice by others in the hut had done the climb yesterday. The summit. Wow. The dolerite cliffs are sheer and full of character. We were rewarded with clear blue skies opening up unimpeded views of all the big name features of this area. John Chapman in his book used the words "seemingly unbelievable", I have to agree.


On seeing the Labyrinth from this lofty perch and Mt Gould, I'd love to come some day for more detailed exploration. We spent an hour or so up here and had to leave due to the rapid onset of cloud. Amazing how quick the turn was from clear blue to full on cloud. On the way down we noted how easy it would be to miss the track in bad weather and get into major strife. The views of Lake St Clair were fantastic, something we had not noticed on the way up. Heading back it was good to re-acquaint ourselves with Cephissus falls, and seek out that still elusive platypus.


Back at the hut it was time to get another bath. I do not know which was colder Kia Ora or here, needless to say the wash was very short. The hut filled up tonight, but funnily the snorers were absent. More card games, this time Ricketty Kate and another early night at 9:00pm.

04-Mar-2009

Departure from Narcissus to Cynthia Bay by boat.

We discussed the options for the day in the hut and opted for the boat rather than a walk along the Cuvier valley & Mt Olympus. Some of the occupants of the hut coming from Cynthia bay said a southerly was blowing in and was due any time so that sealed our decision.

As we walked to Narcissus hut that front was indeed moving in with drizzle and decreasing temperatures. The walk went from dense forest to gumtree plains to open button grass swamp then the lake. The birds where out in force and the drizzle worked its way into a downpour. Narcissus hut, a welcome site. Reminds me of Dr Who's Tardis, small on the outside and large on the inside.

Some of the campers stoked up a coal fire, which was very welcome and many of the party who were going to walk the lake altered their decision to ours - take the ferry ! Ray's use of the phone was fortuitous as he booked ahead. With 28 in the hut and a carrying capacity for 23 some had to wait it out.


The boat captain was a character, making the 1/2 hour journey very short. A warm shower at the backpackers in Cythia Bay was just the ticket, and a shave made me presentable for civilisation. Dinner of steak and salad promised more than it delivered, but hey anything will do for a change over cous cous and pasta. A double scoop of ice cream in a waffle cone, so completely wrong, was just right!

The visitor centre was worth visiting and they told us that we had a good chance of spotting a platypus in Platypus bay, so we ventured over there after dinner. But alas the mysterious platypus remained exactly that. We did, however, get to enjoy the ice cream and other critters - potoroos, wallaby and birds.


The backpacker beds were comfortable and sleep came easy with the hypnotic drumming of the resurgent rains.

05-Mar-2005

We were hoping to do a day trip up to Mt Rufus, but the weather was still against us. It absolutely chucked it down with rain and hail. So the day was spent drinking hot chocolate and lingering in the research and information centre. At 4:15pm it was time to get out of here.

The bus trip to Hobart was pleasant and went quickly, the weather clearing as we neared our destination. We arrived at 7:30pm and checked into Central City BackPackers.

Central City BackPackers is located over some shops in Collins st. It is a bit of a rabbit warren, but does the job.

Arm River track to Cynthia Bay - now where is the next adventure to be ?
Gear Check List.
Tent
Boots
Lightweight shoes
Backpack
Compass
Maps
Toilet Paper
Trowel
Medical Kit & Insect repellent
Safety Blanket
Heavy Duty Garbage Bag x 2
Water Bladder
Water Bottle
Therma Rest
Ear plugs
Towel
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Camera
Spare Batteries
Toothbrush & Paste
Soap
Whistle
Groundsheet
Rope
Torch Clothes:
Shirt x 2
Trousers
Underpants x 3
Thermal top
Thermal bottom
Windstopper Top
Kinetic trousers
Handkerchief x 3
Goretex overcoat
Hat
Head band
Socks x 3 
 


Planned Itinerary:
  • Arm River Track – Mt Pillinger – Pelion Hut (1hr, 4 1/2hr)
  • Mt Oakleigh (4hr)
  • Mt Ossa (2 1/2 hr) or Forth Gorge (5hr)
  • Move to Kia Ora Hut (3hr). Do Mt Ossa if not yesterday, or Mt Pelion East.
  • Move to Windy Ridge Hut (3 1/2 hr) Visit D’Alton, Fergusson and Hartnett falls. (1 1/2 hr)
  • Narcissus hut (3 hr)
  • Gould Plateau (5 hr)
  • Pine Valley Hut (3 1/2 hr)
  • The Acropolis (5 hr)
  • The Labyrinth (4 hr)
  • Pine Valley to Narcissus hut via Gould Plateau (8 hr).
Contacts:
Jones – Sheffield info – 6491 1036
Bus Driver – Ray Becker 0418 204 701 Cradle Country Adventures. Baker RS & JE, 40 Rogers Rd Kimberley 6497 2154

Maps:

Entering the Arm River track
Mt Ossa
The Labyrinth
Lake St Clair

Blog References


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